Going toward the low end, I was shocked the first time I played one at how good a Kincaid spinet was (another name used on the "Grand" spinets, according to Larry Fine) that I'm guessing was probably from the 1970s or so, give or take a decade. The only similar age spinet I've ever seen that was possibly better (and not by much) was a Baldwin Acrosonic. I have a friend with a ~1955 Wurlitzer spinet that has a better tone & action, and is overall in better condition, than ANY spinet I've seen from that era. So, take what you can when you can and never feel it is beneath you to work on Wurlitzers, Kimballs, Acrosonics, Cable Nelson, Everett and many others (even Betsy Ro$$ $pinet$). There may, in fact be more of that kind of work available in these stressed economic times than there is for high level rebuilding. It is money in your pocket and both you and the customer will be benefactors. You will do competent work and make the piano perform as intended.įor that reason, I like to spell Spinet like this: $pinet Don't fall for it it is good, honest work and the expectations the customer has are not what the owner of a very expensive piano may have. They like to build themselves up to put you down. I still do such repairs and do them gladly as opposed to what I have seen often on lists like this and Pianotech by the "I only do Steinways" type guys.
#Vintage wurlitzer spinet piano mahogany how to#
You know what to do and how to do it the customer does not. This is an effective and ethical way to solve a problem that would otherwise mean the instrument is useless. Some may need CA glue treatment for the pinblock.
#Vintage wurlitzer spinet piano mahogany full#
It can mean a full day's work and you can charge as much or more as you would for 4 tunings at your full price plus mark up the cost of grommets or any other supplies and make further profit. These are all very basic services and provide good experience for any technician who needs that kind of experience. Some models of 60's and 70's vintage will need new grommets and their actions deserve to be removed, screws tightened, hammers filed and aligned and basic regulation such as key level touch up, correction of dip if necessary, grommet adjustment and let off be performed. (Would you have eaten that olive in your salad anyway?). They left out what was not essential to keep the price down. That is why I avoided the word, "cheap" but said "lowest cost" instead. Many of those that were really no good have already been discarded. Some did have some fairly sloppy workmanship but most are sturdy pianos that will last a lifetime. High quality plastic key caps with only minimal hairline cracking.They and Kimballs are not necessarily as bad of pianos as many technicians like to say they are. Mahogany case and solid wood soundboard with a mahogany veneer. Some features of a Wurlitzer 720a, as exemplified in these photos: The only difference is it is all housed in a ‘spinet’ styled cabinet. A 720a is the console version of a 145, identical in the mechanical action, reeds, harp and amplifier. This is a great example of a 720a, in that it is cosmetically perfect and the amp was fully functional. We played a A-7 chord, and a wall of rich tube sound blasted out of the massive 12” alnico speaker. We thought, oh then it must not be making sound because we heard nothing - not even the usual idle hum.
When we walked into the room where the original owner had this keyboard, the seller mentioned they had it switched on for us ready to try out.
0 kommentar(er)
